Adjust oven rack to lower position and preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Spray a rimmed baking sheet with cooking spray.

Pour oil over baking sheet and tilt until evenly coated with oil.

Using a sharp knife, halve potatoes lengthwise. Place potato halves cut side down on cutting board and cut lengthwise into 1- to 1 1/2-inch-thick wedges.

In a large pot, bring water to a boil over high heat. Add salt, baking soda, and potatoes and stir to combine.

Return to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer and cook until potatoes are barely tender, about 7 minutes.

Drain potatoes carefully and transfer to a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper and toss to coat.

Transfer wedges to prepared baking sheet, arranging in a single layer with one flat cut side down, and space between each piece.

Roast in the oven without moving, until golden brown on bottom side, 18 to 22 minutes.

Flip potatoes onto the second flat cut side and continue to roast until golden brown on second side, 18 to 22 minutes longer.

Transfer baking sheet to a heatproof surface, season wedges with salt and pepper to taste, and toss on baking sheet to evenly coat.

Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and blot away excess oil. Serve with your favorite condiments.